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Chanel N° 5 Eau Première:
Beautifully Refreshed Legend


Perfume Review

Name: N° 5 Eau Première
Perfume type/Volume: Eau de Parfum/standard: 2.5 fl. oz. (75 ml), 5.0 fl. oz. (150 ml)
Designer: Chanel
Perfumer: Jacques Polge
Launched: 2008
Perfume ad: Et si c’était la première fois. (As if it were the first time.)

Olfactory group: Woman – Floral (by osmoz.com)

Notes (by osmoz.com):
Top: Ylang-Ylang, Aldehydes, Neroli
Middle: Jasmine, Rose
Base: Vetiver from Reunion, Vanilla

Intro and the new Chanel No. 5 movie

Chanel N° 5 Eau Première by haute couture superbrand Chanel was introduced in 2008. The perfume nose behind is the third Chanel’s perfumer, Jacques Polge, who created many other Chanel fragrances for women, like Allure, Coco, Chance, Coco Mademoiselle.

Polge created Eau Première for all those women who loved the most famous perfume in the world, Chanel N° 5 (No. 5), wanted to wear it, but felt it wasn’t for them. Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is a fresher, lighter, more transparent version of the original Chanel No. 5 perfume. It has original ingredients, with the same heart and style, but blended together in different proportions in a new, modern way. As if it were the first time: Chanel No. 5 created today anew. At Chanel they compare Eau Première to a water color interpretation of the original No. 5 oil painting…

The bottle follows the concept of the fragrance in relation to its predecessor. It is a more purified version of the original iconic No. 5 bottle, which entered the art history through Andy Warhol’s famous silkscreen prints. The bottle of Eau Première is still square, but taller and somehow softer, more feminine... It keeps the historic reference, but has a youthful, fresh and updated design.

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première

(Photo credit: wvfonseca @ Flickr – Creative Commons)


On May 5th 2009 (to honor Coco Chanel’s luckiest number 5) Chanel launched a new advertising campaign for the No. 5 fragrance family, with the new stunning spokesmodel, French actress Audrey Tautou. The new No. 5 perfume movie was directed by French director Jean-Pierre Jeunet, who also directed very popular eccentric romantic comedy "The Fabulous Destiny of Amélie Poulain" (Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain; 2001).

The new perfume movie for Chanel No. 5 “Train de nuit” (“Night train”) is not just another perfume ad. It is a short cinematic masterpiece (two versions: 140 or 60 seconds), homage to the timeless Chanel No. 5 perfume, the most famous perfume of all times. Those familiar with Jeunet’s work will also be able to find references to Jeunet’s cinematic collaboration with his muse, Audrey Tautou.

Jeunet polished the movie to perfection, making it sensual, romantic, but with a few ironic edges to it. The expressive actors Audrey Tautou and Travis Davenport, the night train, close-ups of Audrey’s delicate shoulders and neck, the aged movie colors, the landscape, Istanbul, Billie Holiday’s I'm a fool to want you...

Jeunet said the story was inspired by fate and chance, missed encounters and regrets… Situations, so familiar to everyone: “I should have taken that chance!”… I should have say “Wait, I love you!”… Years later you regret it, the missed chance...

Well, the final message of the new No. 5 movie is the second chance. Chanel No. 5’s magically seductive scent intertwines the paths of strangers in love once again and gives them a second chance. And even though the perfume ad was not specifically created for Eau Première but for the whole No. 5 fragrance family, I feel that with Eau Première you indeed get the second chance to step into a happy love relationship with Chanel No. 5 perfume, if you missed your first chance (read: hated it).

Notes

And now, finally about the notes of this fragrance… First of all it is a floral aldehydic blend, but here I have to mention osmoz.com’s witty categorization of this fragrance as Woman – Floral, which is an allusion to the original desire of Coco Chanel for No. 5 perfume to reproduce the scent of a woman.

Top notes are a fresh, light combination of citrus (Neroli), ylang-ylang and aldehydes. Citrus vanishes fast. Floral scent of ylang-ylang is softer and fresher than in No. 5 perfume. The aldehydes are still present, they are a link to the original No. 5 perfume. However, they are muted down considerably, preventing Eau Première to become mum-aunt-grandma type of fragrance. Quieter and modernized aldehydes make the whole composition less cold, sharp and less heavy… They somehow counterbalance the clearer floral notes. The heart notes are opulent duo rose and jasmine, whereas the warm base notes are slightly powdery vanilla with woody vetiver.

Some find the drydown heavy, woody. I don’t. I find it pleasantly warm. The biggest problem I have with this perfume is its staying power, it fades away really fast, especially compared to the original No. 5 perfume.

Lady & Feelings

To me Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is a very tender feminine perfume. In contrast to how a lot of people find the original No. 5 perfume, its updated version is not as cold or heavy. It is warm like sunshine in the winter and fresh enough in the summer. Wearing it you will feel lightness and tenderness. And a lot of bold elegance and high-class flair at the same time... It is definitely a scent of a modern independent woman, who knows what she wants right now, but appreciates the heritage of the past as well...

Occasions & Seasons

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is much easier to love and wear than the original No. 5 perfume. It is far enough from the original to have its own fresh, youthful and modern personality, but just close enough to inherit the daring flair of the classical icon. It is light and inoffensive enough to be suitable for every day and office wear, as well as for different business occasions. Any season... Tender and feminine as it is, it is also a great choice as a wedding perfume.

As a Gift?

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is a good choice for a perfume gift as well. It is an expensive gift, though. But if you are looking for a unique, luxurious perfume gift with a lot of style and iconic legacy, then this is the right one for you.

For me N° 5 Eau Première by Chanel is worth the price.

Quick Summary

Suitable for:
- Everyday wear.
- Office wear.
- Business occasions.
- Light enough for all seasons.

Woman/Style:
- Youthful, but not necessarily young.
- Modern.
- Elegant. Chic.
- Urban.

Compliments:
- Fresh. Youthful.
- Tender. Feminine.
- High-class elegant.
- Brilliant interpretation of the one and only Chanel No. 5 perfume.
- Good choice for perfume gift.

Critiques:
- Expensive.
- Fades away too fast.
- Some might find aldehydes too strong.
- Can be too powdery.

Rating:
9.0/10



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